At about 16:20 Hawaiian time, a Boeing 747-200F operated by Evergreen International Airlines experienced smoke in the cockpit while en route from Honolulu to Pago Pago. The flight was about 2 hours out of Honolulu at flight level 340, but returned for an uneventful landing. Inspection found an incandescent lamp dimmer was still hot after two hours without electrical power. Neither of the two circuit breakers attached to the dimmer assembly were open. When opened manually, both breakers were found to be red hot.